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You can personalize your look with cuff links, pocket squares and statement ties, but let’s get back to basics: The very shirt you wear sets the tone for your entire outfit. In fact, a shirt’s collar can not only complement your look but your mood and face (!) too. Read on for all the 411 on five of the most popular styles, and discover which one is best for you:

Spread Collar

The spread collar is suitable for any occasion, thanks to the way its points perfectly meet and then seamlessly disappear into a sportcoat and the crisp look it delivers even when you’re not wearing a tie. It can also help a thinner man look more proportioned. How? Easy: The collar’s wide look is counterpoints long facial features.

Point Collar

It’s the most popular style of collar, and it works best for those who are partial to a medium to small tie knot. The point collar can also work wonders visually: It’s flattering on a man with round features, as its elongating effect will visually lengthen (and therefore slim) his face. Meanwhile, a man with a thin face may want to avoid the point collar, as it’ll only make his mug look longer.

Button-Down Collar

Feeling casual? This collar is perfect for the man who’s forgoing a necktie for the day and still wants a crisp, clean look. If you’re not ready to toss the tie, wear one with a button-down collared shirt for a perfectly preppy vibe.

Cutaway Collar

Emerging in the 1930s and considered a more pronounced version of the spread collar, this one is sometimes referred to as a Windsor collar because it provides plenty of room for a Windsor tie knot. Try it for a fun look that will set you apart with a bold, yet nuanced fashion statement.

Club Collar

This style gained popularity in the mid-19th century and enjoyed a revival when period TV shows (we’re looking at you, Mad Men) began featuring characters in them. They’re best for a cocktail party, when you’re feeling adventurous and want to mix poise with a dash of playfulness.

Of course, you’ll find all these collar choices at Garmany.